Ready to relax and indulge, our second visit to Lima was to the very posh neighborhood of Miraflores. Picture a Peruvian West Hollywood and you will get the general vibe. We arrived very, very early in the morning on an overnight bus from Huaray. In a happy twist of fate, the hostel we booked had an issue with their showers and had booked a SWEET room for us at their more upscale BnB partner hotel. We showed up at 4am (the bus had hauled down the mountains, arriving two full hours early) to the barely marked Hotel BaryBar and not only did the receptionist have a private room with an ocean view for us, she let us check in on the spot. We crawled into bed and let the Pacific Ocean sooth us to sleep for 5 hours.
My version of a great morning generally starts with great pastries. Blake and I wandered through a very lovely neighborhood and found a great cafe where we had a delicious nosh on chocolate croissants, ham and cheese croissants, plain croissants, and cappacinos. From there we headed to Huaca Pucllana, a pre-Incan, pre-Wari step pyramid built by the Lima people. Set smack dab in the middle of this very posh city neighborhood, the complex is huge and only half excavated. Our visit there was a good reminder of the length of time and complexity of history here in Peru.
Other than that, I cant report that we did much besides enjoy wandering the streets and taking in the views of fancy Limenos. We had several errands to run (to the doctor, to the clinic, to buy toiletries) and the day was uneventful and pleasent. Perhaps my favorite part was our afternoon. After sharing a "menu ejecutivo" of fish soup, chicken with rice and beans, rice pudding and a beverage (which we could not enjoy due to concerns over water saftey but that smelled wonderful) for a grand total of 7.5 soles, or about 3 dollars, we took a stroll along the park which skirts the cliffs above the Pacific Ocean. We watched surfers, tested the free exercise equipment, and enjoyed the sea air.
Interesting side note on the microclimate of Lima: It is like being trapped in a snow globe all the time. There is no blue sky, just a foggy white dome above your head and an occasional light drizzle. While not unpleasent per se, it is a bit oppressive.